Gentle reader,
Sometimes in Los Angeles, the past appears to rhyme with the present. We don’t know if it’s merely coincidence or if some celestial poet is crafting doggerel, but it sure feels like there is a larger, inexplicable pattern at play. And we pay attention.
Like last month. On November 8, a person scrounging in a San Fernando Valley dumpster tore open a plastic bag and found dismembered human remains, which he reported to police. This led to the arrest of a local man on multiple murder charges. Between those two events, on November 11, wooden pallets stacked beneath the 10 Freeway downtown caught fire, triggering a California state emergency order and bringing enormous resources to the repair effort.
Seemingly unrelated, a family tragedy (and policing failure) and an infrastructure crisis (and opportunity to reimagine CalTrans land for the public good).
But as the news stories broke and details were revealed, we looked at each other and asked “what was that all about?” Because these incidents rhymed—at least to us, they did.
Here’s how: one of the more disturbing tales we tell on true crime tours is about a 1979 dispute among Israeli cocaine dealers that ended with a young couple killed and dismembered, then disposed of in multiple locations, including a San Fernando Valley dumpster less than three miles from one seen above.
That historic crime, too, was quickly solved because a man digging in the garbage found something terrible and called it in. In each case, the wealthy killers were seemingly oblivious to the subculture of poor Angelenos who dumpster dive in order to survive, a blind spot they would have the opportunity to lament for a very long time.
We don’t know the name of the person who found the terrible package last month. But the 1979 dumpster diver was Daniel Van Meter. Though not poor, he had been scrounging for useful junk most of his life, and regularly visited this dumpster seeking food for the stray animals that lived on his property.
Van Meter was a folk artist, political crank and architect of sorts, and creator of an unlikely landmark called the Tower of Wooden Pallets (Los Angeles Historic-Cultural Monument No. 184, declared in 1978—Cultural Heritage Commissioner Bob Winter later allowed he and his colleagues might have been drunk—demolished in 2006).
Had the Herald-Examiner photographer documenting the detectives at the scene panned out, they would have seen Van Meter’s controversial masterpiece, also located in the dead end cul de sac at 15357 Magnolia Boulevard.
After Van Meter’s death, his distant relatives petitioned the city to dissolve the historic protections on the Tower of Wooden Pallets. They wanted the land cleared so they could sell to a developer to build an apartment house. City inspectors said the landmark was a fire hazard, structurally unsound, eaten by termites and full of rats. And down it came, but not without a fight.
The unlikely synchronicity of trash diggers helping to catch murderers and towers of pallets dominating the news cycle was enough to remind us we’d been meaning to learn more about the Historic-Cultural Monument designation and the subsequent demolition of Daniel Van Meter’s tower.
And here’s where we ran up against a secondary rhyme scheme, or maybe a harmony line, to make it all more curious.
We constantly assist with independent historic preservation campaigns, but there are only a few times when we’ve gone into City Hall ourselves to champion a landmark designation.
The first time was when the writer Charles Bukowski’s East Hollywood bungalow court was threatened with demolition by real estate flippers. After digging for dirt online, their lawyer objected to the city honoring the property by claiming that Bukowski was a Nazi sympathizer, mainly due to some dumb stuff he once said when he was drunk. The Cultural Heritage Commission didn’t buy it. Nevertheless, Bukowski’s name was dragged through the international mud.
Looking into the Tower of Wooden Pallets’ history, we learned that Daniel Van Meter and his brother Baron had been sent to San Quentin in the 1940s, as a consequence of the group prosecution of The Friends of Progress, Angelenos accused of distributing German propaganda and convicted under the McCarthy-era Subversive Organizations Registration Act. Their supposed crime, sedition, is one that’s quite newsworthy for the first time in nearly a century.
The ACLU defended these creeps and in 2013 sponsored legislation that finally repealed the Act. The 1945 appeal, PEOPLE v. NOBLE et al., is a fascinating account of how Nazi sympathizers hung out and spread hate in the southland, while constantly surveilled by undercover operatives (here’s silent film footage of what looks like a Bund rally in Glendale’s Hindenburg Park).
From PEOPLE v. NOBLE we get hints about how trust fund kid Daniel Van Meter ended up living in a ramshackle old ranch house in the deep San Fernando Valley, piling up surplus pallets, feeding stray animals and digging in the trash.
Before the brothers were sent to prison, they lived with their widowed mother and her South American mining and poison gas millions in a fine home in the West Adams district, across from the William Andrews Clark Library. As far as we can tell, they never worked a day in their lives. The brothers enjoyed dressing up in Nazi uniforms, harassing the Clark’s gardener over lawn clippings, and socializing with others who shared their views at Clifton’s Cafeteria, the Aryan Bookstore and the Embassy Auditorium.
When they got out of the Big House, mama Esther Van Meter moved her wayward boys far from bad companions, to the semi-rural property on Magnolia, where Dan later built his tower and recorded one of the least compelling oral histories we’ve ever heard—the interviewers appear to have known nothing of his criminal past.
What does it mean, then, that Charles Bukowski grew up less than three miles from Daniel Van Meter and died on Van Meter’s 81st birthday? Maybe nothing.
But it’s interesting that both men were drifting, passive youths who had their paths shaped by older women. Bukowski spent years in the bars, learning humility and humanity in the company of Jane Cooney Baker, the tormented alcoholic who is so beautifully fictionalized as Wanda (Faye Dunaway) in Barfly.
Then after many years as a full time postal worker and part time writer, Bukowski dared to be entirely an artist and found success as the champion of L.A.’s lowlife outsiders. His work continues to inspire new generations of writers and readers, and fighting to save his rent controlled home from demolition (and later from illegal Airbnb use) showed us how local history, preservation activism, architecture and storytelling could come together into a guided tour business. Thanks, Hank!
And our friend Lauren Everett, who submitted the nomination for Bukowski Court, has done great work about the importance of affordable housing for healthy communities, and will soon publish a book on Santa Monica’s progressive tenant’s rights policies.
We’ve obtained and published the lengthy City Planning file on the landmarking of the Tower of Wooden Pallets and its destruction, including Daniel Van Meter’s claim that it was built atop a 19th century child’s grave (page 91) and the extraordinary detail (on page 97) that for many years Van Meter welcomed the children from the Hebrew school next door to explore his property. Rabbi Eidlitz said “there is a lot of love there.” Also, a real estate broker brings up the sedition, with press clippings (page 109).
Charles Bukowski was trouble when he was young, but he mellowed and grew. Insulated by his family’s wealth, Daniel Van Meter never had to grow up, and could still horrify a visitor with hateful rhetoric as an old man. What irony then that the murders the sieg heiling Van Meter helped to solve were, for two Jewish families, a chance to know the truth and to grieve their dead—a mitvah, in spite of himself.
And that’s a rhyme that’s worth repeating.
Saturday’s walking tour explores the rich legacy of creativity, collecting, preservation and wild parties along the Arroyo Seco, featuring stops at Lummis House, Heritage Square and two fascinating landmarks restored by preservation pals Paul Greenstein and Dydia DeLyser and a surprising neighborhood connection to the Bradbury Building. Join us, do!
yours for Los Angeles,
Kim & Richard
Esotouric
Psst… If you’d like to support our efforts to be the voice of places worth preserving, we have a tip jar and a subscriber edition of this newsletter, vintage Los Angeles webinars available to stream, in-person tours and a souvenir shop you can browse in. We’ve also got recommended reading bookshelves on Amazon and the Bookshop indie bookstore site. And did you know we offer private versions of our walking and bus tours for groups big or small? Or just share this link with other people who care.
UPCOMING BUS & WALKING TOURS
• Highland Park Arroyo Walking Tour (Sat. 12/9) • Miracle Mile Marvels & Madness Walking Tour (Sun. 12/17) • Human Sacrifice: The Black Dahlia, Elisa Lam, Heidi Planck & Skid Row Slasher Walking Tour (Tues. 12/26) • Evergreen Cemetery, 1877 Walking Tour (Sat. 1/20) • Broadway: Downtown Los Angeles’ Beautiful, Magical Mess Walking Tour (Sat. 1/27) • Bunker Hill, Dead and Alive Walking Tour (Sat. 2/3) • Westlake Park Time Travel Trip Walking Tour (Sat. 2/10) • Angelino Heights & Carroll Avenue Time Travel Trip Walking Tour (Sat. 2/17) • The Real Black Dahlia Crime Bus Tour (Sat. 2/24) • Echo Park Book of the Dead Crime Bus Tour (Sat. 3/9) • Know Your Downtown L.A.: Tunnels To Towers To The Dutch Chocolate Shop Walking Tour (Sat. 3/16) • The Run: Gay Downtown History Walking Tour (Sat. 3/23) • John Fante’s Downtown Los Angeles Birthday Walking Tour (Sat. 4/6)
CLOSELY WATCHED TRAINS
A demo permit seals the fate of Koreatown’s ship-shaped Café Jack, a sad end for one of the rare 21st century programmatic restaurants. But Tugboat Annie's is still available for you to live out your nautical dining fantasies.
At today’s Cultural Heritage Commission hearing, which worked out just swell for the Yucca-Vine Tower, Ken Bernstein announced a welcome update to the city’s Survey LA website, a pretty big deal for preservationists who have had to open multiple databases and PDFs trying to determine layers of protection in a city threatened by mass demolition.
Lynell George muses on riding shotgun with Mike Davis and finding ways to tell an honest Los Angeles story that lingers long after the pen is set down. The sparks made among contributors to the old LA Weekly are much missed.
In Beachwood Canyon, a slumlord is trying to evict RSO tenants from the Krotona Apartments while just south, the Monastery of the Angels is being marketed as a 4 acre teardown for new development. Neither is landmarked. Both need to be saved!
Next time you visit Olvera Street, you can trace the paths of silent cinema royalty, thanks to this terrific then and now post from John Bengtson.
A little birdie alerts us to this FOR SALE sign just posted in front of the landmarked Tokio Florist next to Trader Joe's on Hyperion. Developer Redcar's adaptive reuse project appears DOA, after they wrecked the Japanese garden. No property listing online but maybe it's in the pipeline. Redcar's website (archive version) is currently throwing a security alert, too. What's going on? If we were investors in this half billion dollar fund, we'd be asking that question. As preservationists, we're just concerned about the future of Tokio Florist.
The Friends Of Residential Treasures: Los Angeles has four fellowships available for independent scholars writing about the historic built environment, and creating Trails for others to explore.
The ugly reason America's retail corridors are vacant and blighted: bank financed redevelopment is based on busted bubble valuations, and those spaces can never be offered at a tenant friendly rate. And it's why housing's FUBAR, too.
Beverly Hot Springs is back on the market after landmark efforts scared off the developer that sought to cap the flow. It's possible to preserve a cultural, natural landmark and build up on the surface lot—for a buyer who has a soul.
Miniaturist Kieran Wright (smallscalela) has shrunk the rediscovered Adohr Milk Farms neon saved by Howlin' Ray's, and we love it!
Is your HEAD CHICK a MIDNIGHT SNACK and a TECHNICOLOR GAL? Tell her to SPOON UP, GREASE THE GUGGLE and HIVE the Hepcats Jive Talk Dictionary (1945).
The Dutch Chocolate Shop, the Batchelder tiled landmark that we visit on our popular new Know Your Downtown LA tour, is for sale for just $4.5 Million and seeking an inspired steward to bring it back to public use. Is it you?
Lured in by arc welding, we peeped into the long vacant Subway Terminal lobby and admired creamy new ceiling panels getting popped into place. Now on the market, will a bold promoter turn the old train platform and westbound tunnel into a public attraction? And will we ever take a tour group underground again?
Diamond Bakery is closing after 77 years, though wholesale baking continues. Blame City Hall, which allowed a key Fairfax District commercial block to be blighted by Alex Gorby, who demolished the Fairfax Theatre by neglect and killed pedestrian retail. RIP old friend, and we’ll see you at the supermarket.
When Bunker Hill was depopulated, the redevelopment agency said new housing was coming. This took too long for the displaced seniors, but Angelus Plaza kitty-corner to Grand Central Market is the promise kept, and site of a powerful exhibit of Michael Hyatt's 1970s era photos of Skid Row life. Now compiled in a limited edition book, they capture a lost world worth revisiting. And you can meet the artist from 1-5pm on January 6-7, 2024.
The past is hiding all around us! Cheers to dangitinc on Instagram for spotting this flour sack ghost sign at 1724 N. Vermont, newly exposed by demolition. Taggers, please stay away! Developer, be a preservation pal and save it with a window view!
A new voice in the L.A. Times, Angie Orellana Hernandez sets the bar high with a Column One story, Inside the last porn theater in Los Angeles, about those drawn to the Tiki's glow like moths who find comfort within. We're in there, too.
The Shame of the Ricky Jay Collection Sotheby's Auction—updated! The Lilly Library has a happy surprise for those, like us, who lamented the magician-scholar’s weird treasures were all cast to the wind.
Very scary but totally profound. Your work explicates the greed and lawlessness in our city Babs
I have to read this again but the event that stands out in my mind is that Diamond Bakery is closing. I remember going there every week and loving the whole experience. The women behind the counter always gave me and my twin sisters free rugala. We did not have to ask like at Canters down the street.
We spent a lot of time deciding which was the best bakery and Diamond Bakery won. An not because are begging strategies worked better there. Keep up the good work. Little changes for one person and bigger for others. Babs