Together, we can save the lovely Renaissance Revival M. Flax Artists' Materials Building (1925) on MacArthur Park from senseless demolition

Updated July 10, 2023 with news of the major fire in the M. Flax building. Scroll down for details or click here. Updated May 27, 2024 with demolition news, also available here.

Gentle reader,

If you drive around Los Angeles, you’ll see a lot of new development, and much of that is essentially the same project: a dense apartment or co-living complex built flush to the sidewalk, taller than anything on the block, usually clad in discordant colored panels and with perpetually vacant retail below.

They are ugly buildings that squeeze every drop of profit at the expense of good design, landscaping, street life or squirrel happiness.

We keep track of these boring new projects because they frequently require the purchase of rent controlled apartment houses or beloved restaurants for more than they’re worth (at least without a zone change), tenant displacement and demolition of beautiful buildings.

In the flats beneath Angelino Heights, for instance, the remaining tenants are desperately trying to hang on to their homes in the redevelopment threatened Stires Staircase Bungalow Court, strung like pearls along steep steps that for a century have conveyed residents down to Sunset Boulevard to shop or access mass transit. There’s room on this parcel, and in the huge vacant lot to the east, to build many more units without destroying these. But in our messed up world, preservation isn’t as profitable as clear-cut construction, or as easy to get funded.

As heartbreaking as it is to lose neighbors for new projects marketed to newcomers and tourists, it’s worse when buildings get destroyed and the land sits there, vacant and weedy, for years. We’ve seen this happen enough that we’d like to see a new rule in City Hall: no demolition permits should be granted without an approved and funded new project. (Demolition that happens with no permits is another matter entirely.)

But it’s a demolition permit sought with no proposed new project that brings us to 2416-20 W. 7th Street on MacArthur Park, a charming two-story Renaissance Revival commercial building turned unpermitted residence, designed in 1925 by A.S. Niebecker for the Weyman Bros., purveyors of sassy ladies hats.

Modest compared to its spectacular sisters, T. Beverley Keim’s Kosloff Building and W.S. Hebbard’s Parkview Building (demolished 1986 for a strip mall), the little red painted building—seen at right circa 1930 with leasing signs in the showroom windows—played a significant role in Westlake’s rich history as Los Angeles’ original Arts District.

For it was in this building that Meyer Flax established his M. Flax artists materials and picture framing shop in 1931, serving the students and teachers of the nearby Otis College of Art and Design, Art Center School and Chouinard Art Institute and dispensing the coveted Meyer Flax Award of Merit (and store credit!) at the annual California Watercolor Society exhibition at the Los Angeles County Museum.

When M. Flax moved to Westwood Village in 1950 (where you can still shop for a fountain pen in the successor shop), California Artist Materials took over the lucrative retail space on West 7th Street, adding the California Gallery to showcase young artists in 1954. CAM closed in 1965.

Westlake’s time as a center for progressive arts education was coming to an end, though Chouinard’s former campus would briefly serve as a groundbreaking center for feminist and performance art practice. Tracking 2420 W. 7th Street’s tenants through newspaper records reveals a changing neighborhood.

Through the 1970s, it was a blood bank, which many poor Angelenos used to subsidize their County relief checks. In 1981, you could send in a few bucks and receive a mysterious punk or new wave kit by return post. By 1988, it was Rubber, “a super-stylish art gallery/club with sexually erotic art and an underground warehouse feel” (Fri-Sat from 11pm to 4am).

But in recent years, the showroom windows have been hidden behind roll down screens, with unhoused people living under tarps flush to the building. It’s unclear if the unpermitted apartments above were occupied by the owner, tenants or nightly visitors. The building sold for $620K in 2003, $1 Million in 2010, $1.4 Million in 2013, $3.2 Million in 2018 and was recently on the market again for $5.4 Million, which is absurd.

Earlier this month, a concerned neighbor sent us a photo of the demo notice taped to the metal gate, and we looked the address up on the LADBS website, finding only that permit, and no proposed new project.

We posted photos on Facebook and Instagram, and discovered that many people agree that that the beautiful building that ought to be treasured, not carted off to the dump.

But how to save it? It isn’t individually called out as a potential historic resource in the city’s too cursory Survey LA database, its art world significance isn’t widely known and there is no beloved legacy business struggling to survive on site.

But there is a way! Fifteen years ago, the Community Redevelopment Agency commissioned an intensive survey of the Westlake Recovery Community Redevelopment Area, examining 977 individual properties for their potential as local, California or National Register landmarks, and preparing neighborhood and cultural histories.

While M. Flax didn’t make the cut as a potential landmark—which we’d argue was an error by the research team, which failed to mention any art supply retailers, galleries, framers or commercial print shops—it clearly fits into the Theme: Cultural Development and Institutions: Performing Arts, Visual Arts & Literature, 1918– 1957 (pages 85-88).

The Community Redevelopment Agency no longer exists; Governor Jerry Brown dissolved them statewide in 2012. But in Los Angeles, the city serves as the successor agency, slowly winding down the business of the CRA. This means that permits to redevelop or demolish properties that lie within former redevelopment zones are subject to the Planning Department’s discretion, which is one reason the beautiful B’nai B’rith lodge at 9th & Union is still standing.

The M. Flax Building sits well within the Westlake Recovery Community Redevelopment Area, and also within the arts context previously surveyed. And we assert it is at the discretion of the Office Of Historic Resources (OHR) to deny this senseless demolition permit.

If you agree that the M. Flax Artists’ Materials Building is worth preserving, please send an email to OHR, telling them that you care about 2416-20 West 7th Street and don't want to see the building demolished. You can just write a single sentence or as much as your heart holds. Send your email to Director Ken Bernstein (ken.bernstein@lacity.org) and Senior Architect Lambert Giessinger (lambert.giessinger@lacity.org) today.

You can also share this visual slideshow link that briefly explains the issue and what you and your friends can do to help. Together, we can save the lovely Renaissance Revival M. Flax Artists' Materials Building (1925) on MacArthur Park from senseless demolition!

yours for Los Angeles,

Kim & Richard

Esotouric

Update 3/29/2023: An encouraging email was just received from Ken Bernstein at Office of Historic Resources - “I'm away until next week, but had meant to let you know that we successfully got DBS to add a historic resource clearance to this permit, so these issues will be thoroughly evaluated.”

Update 7/10/2023: After neighbors complained about squatters accessing the building’s interior, last night M. Flax suffered a Major Emergency Structure Fire centered on the second floor, which when extinguished left the building without a roof. KeyNewsNetwork’s video of the fire is here. Thank you to faz_designs for the photo of the building today, and the red tag notice banning anyone from entering. We are saddened by the fire, but glad the beautiful facade survived. Please continue to let Ken Bernstein and Lambert Giessinger know that you care about this building, and we will continue to advocate for its preservation.

Update 4/1/2024: Lambert Giessinger from Office of Historic Resources emailed to inform us that a demolition permit had been submitted for M. Flax, but that there was no new project. We responded, “Will Ken [Bernstein] sign the demolition permit? We hope not. Even after the fire, it's such a handsome contributor to that block on the park, and rich in history.”

Lambert replied: “Thanks for your continued interest in this property. Most/all of the building appears to be gone. You're thinking the remnant facade retains some eligibility as a potential resource? The demolition permit clearance falls under the Redevelopment unit since the property is not designated. Here is the redevelopment plan language:

Unfortunately, "to the extent practical" and "special consideration" do not provide any CEQA path to review the proposed demolition. We will ask the owner if there is a proposed project, beyond clearing the lot, to see if they can retain the facade.”

And we answered, “Thanks for the info. Most/all of the building does not appear to be gone. The facade and back wall on the alley are intact. The damage looks to be to the interior, which was previously gutted without permits for the residential remodel prior to the last sale, and to the roof. It would be great if the facade could be retained on the 7th Street side! Please keep us posted on what you hear from the owner, and let them know there is a lot of affection in the community for this handsome building with a rich history as part of the Westlake arts district.”

The building recently sold to Berdakin / Alberti 2012 Irrevocable Children’s Trust in Golden Beach, FL. On April 5, we shot the above video of the current state of M. Flax. On April 12, verifications were in process for the demolition permit.

On April 17, 2024, the city issued the demolition permit, which if it goes forward will reward years of illegal construction, neglect and vacancy with the complete loss of a cultural and architectural landmark.

However, there is still hope. Filed prior to the approval of the demolition permit is an ongoing LADBS code violation investigation for a Substandard Order effective 3/8/2024. This calls for the property owner to 1) Repair or replace deteriorated or defective members of ceilings, roofs, ceiling and roof supports or [other horizontal] members, and 2) Obtain all required building permits, inspections and approvals to repair the structure from the fire damage. We would very much like to see the city enforce this order, and urge others who care to join us in emailing Director Ken Bernstein (ken.bernstein@lacity.org) and Senior Architect Lambert Giessinger (lambert.giessinger@lacity.org) asking that they act to preserve M. Flax today!

Update 5/27/2024: M. Flax is coming down, and we were there to document some of the last moments of this fine building that deserved so much better from its owners and from the city of Los Angeles. But in death it found a friend.

Update 6/6/2024: Now the elevator shaft and much of the walls have been removed, and the French doors are being salvaged by hand wreck methods.

UPDATE 6/21/2024: M. Flax is nearly gone, as Jaime Castro's brick salvage crew pulls down the facade. For almost a century, it has looked out on Westlake, then MacArthur, Park. Goodbye. Thanks la_hazeyemm for the photo taken this morning.

---

Psst… If you’d like to support our efforts to be the voice of places worth preserving, we have a tip jar and a subscriber edition of this newsletter, vintage Los Angeles webinars available to stream, in-person walking tours, gift certificates and a souvenir shop you can browse in. Or just share this link with other people who care.

UPCOMING WALKING TOURS & BUS TOUR SALE

Saturday, April 8 - John Fante’s Downtown • Saturday, April 15 - Raymond Chandler’s Downtown • Saturday, April 22 - Alvarado Terrace & South Bonnie Brae Tract • Saturday, April 29 - Human Sacrifice: The Black Dahlia, Elisa Lam, Heidi Planck & Skid Row Slasher Cases • Saturday, May 13 - All Around the Auto Club West Adams • Saturday, May 20 - Bunker Hill’s Modernist Marvels with Nathan Marsak • Saturday, May 27 - Evergreen Cemetery, 1877

Save $15/ticket and support our return to motorized touring (coming soon!)

---

CLOSELY WATCHED TRAINS

Here’s the letter the Cultural Heritage Commission is sending to the Rec & Parks Department, seeking a community led preservation solution to the shuttered legacy business Griffith Park Pony Rides that is a contributor to the larger park landmark.

Sunrise dapples Angels Flight Railway in gilded light, and funicular operator William Campbell captures the magic moment for all to enjoy.

On Twitter (and in an expanded Threadreader page) we’ve been reporting on the many civic and corporate failures exposed by the March 19 fire at the ARN Radio Studio building in East Hollywood: TV stations misreporting it as an apartment fire, rented cots in squalid sound booths and parked RVs, years of visits from LADBS inspectors and LAFD, no action from the City Attorney either, City Council approving then forgetting about publishing an Airbnb database, and Airbnb profiting off the illegal bookings. Then in Montreal, a similar fire killed a bunch of people, with very different results.

A year ago, we posted about the North Hollywood bungalow court that burned, and local news not realizing people live there. Turns out the slumlord hired the arsonist—and Los Angeles City Council President Paul Krekorian ignored the tenants’ cries for help!

We’re sorry it’s just fire after fire in this newsletter; it’s tough on us, too. Weeks ago, concerned neighbors asked us for help with the abandoned, unsecured home at 436 S. Boyle Avenue. LADBS got a code enforcement complaint, passed it along, got more complaints. But nothing was done, and now the Edward H. Hollenbeck Residence (1906) has burned, wrecking a potential National Register block. City Hall is failing Angelenos—we need reform—services—competence!

There are now two competing City Council motions to memorialize late puma P22. Monica Rodriquez-John Lee direct the city to figure it out; Nithya Raman, burned from the Christmas Pony Ride closure which left community groups out of the dialog, seeks Griffith Park Advisory Board input. The cat abides.

After a 10+ year fight, Plummer Park's demo threatened WPA Great/Long Hall (H.L. Gogerty, 1949), ground zero for ACT UP, likely to become a cultural resource.

A big TOC project is proposed for 2511 West Sunset with the usual bland design. Why not preserve the amazing King Foods art deco facade that's been part of the community since 1936 instead? Build up, don't erase cool roadside architecture!

Glad to see the L.A. Times Food section devoting so much space to the cultural preservation crisis of Off Vine, but it's a shame Linda Deutsch's story ran on closing weekend. It CAN be saved—AND landmarked—but it needs angels now.

Every residential Mills Act contract holder cried bloody murder at recent threats to the program. As proposed changes move through City Council, all eyes are on the developer friendly PLUM Committee. Can Angelenos afford to stay in historic homes?

LA seeks National Trust funds to restore the wonderful Watts Happening Cultural Center.

Grow Monrovia is trying to preserve the Wildrose Oak Woodland, and the 200 year old trees and wildlife corridor threatened by the Bradbury Road Widening Project.

There's a lot to unpack in this years overdue L.A. Times investigation of the criminal neglect and real estate development pyramid scheme that subjected Skid Row Housing Trust tenants to vile conditions. No mention of the distressed mortgage fund we reported on weeks ago, but they found a proposed weed farm that might be even more depraved.

This LAFD incident report is a one-act play: The Crawlspace.

As the Echo Park fence comes down officially, here's our video interlude documenting the aftermath of the Community De-Fence Action that briefly opened it up last August.

Lovers of mid-century Los Angeles civic architecture, you have an assignment: go out and document the non-ductile concrete buildings on the County's retrofit list before they're lost or closed for years. We love Montebello Library! You?

An update on the rent controlled 1924 bungalow court at 852 Sanborn in Silver Lake: after AQMD and LADBS were called about unpermitted gutting of four empty units, the Housing Department issued a stop work order… and the crew came back today and kept working! Angelenos need these homes now, and councilman Hugo Soto-Martinez needs to make sure the landlord fixes them.

CORRUPTION CORNER: As co-conspirator Raymond Chan's trial teeters on the edge of mistrial with his attorney Harland Braun's hospitalization... Jose Huizar gets a delay in his own sentencing. Our dedicated Jose Huizar true crime tour launch date is still to be determined, but you can hear how some of his land use corruption contributed to two horrifying deaths, on our April 29 tour Human Sacrifice: The Black Dahlia, Elisa Lam, Heidi Planck & Skid Row Slasher Cases… Fascinating reporting from Meghann Cuniff on the prosecution's case against Mark Ridley-Thomas includes FBI agent Brian Adkins' personal opinion that LA is dirtier than Chicago and it makes him sick. Us, too!